South Florida is hard on sealant. Intense sun, wind-driven rain, and constant humidity break caulk down years faster than in a drier climate, and once it cracks or pulls away, water and conditioned air start moving through the gap. Failed caulk around windows and doors is one of the most common causes of water intrusion, air leakage, and mold in homes and commercial buildings here. Atlantic Window Repair re-caulks window and door frames, trim, and glass perimeters throughout Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade counties, sealing the openings that let weather in.
Signs You Need Re-Caulking
- Cracks, gaps, or separation in the caulk around window or door frames
- Caulk that has yellowed, hardened, shrunk, or pulled away from the surface
- Water stains on walls, sills, or the floor near a door after rain
- Drafts or outside air felt around closed windows and doors
- Paint peeling or bubbling near window and door edges
- Mold or mildew on interior frames, trim, or the walls beside them
- Higher cooling bills as conditioned air escapes through the gaps
Window Caulking
On windows, the seal that matters most is the exterior joint where the frame meets the wall, stucco, or trim. That line is what keeps wind-driven rain out of the wall cavity. We also re-seal the interior trim joint for air sealing and a clean finish, and the glass-to-frame perimeter where glazing sealant has failed. Old caulk comes out fully first, because new sealant will not bond over cracked or lifting material.
Door Caulking
Doors are sealed the same way, but the details change with the door type. On exterior entry doors, French doors, and the fixed frames of sliding patio doors, we caulk the perimeter where the door frame meets the wall or stucco. Seal the joint at the threshold where water tends to pool and reseal the trim and casing.
One point worth clarifying: caulk seals the fixed joint between a door frame and the surrounding structure. It is not the same as the weatherstripping that seals the moving gap between the door panel and the frame. If a door leaks air along the panel itself, that is a weather-seal issue, and if it sticks, drags, or will not latch, the cause is hardware rather than sealant. We check all of it during the inspection and tell you what is actually causing the leak.
Caulking Materials We Use
Silicone Caulk
100% silicone is the standard for exterior window and door sealing. It stays flexible through extreme temperature swings, bonds strongly to glass, metal, and painted surfaces, and resists UV breakdown. It is not paintable, and it comes in clear and standard colors. Applied properly, it lasts 20 to 30 years.
Siliconized Latex (Paintable)
A blend of silicone flexibility and latex paintability. It adheres well and takes paint once cured, which makes it a good choice for interior trim and painted wood frames. Typical service life is 10 to 20 years.
Polyurethane Caulk
Very durable and paintable, with strong adhesion to masonry, concrete, and stucco, all common in South Florida construction. It is more rigid than silicone, so it works best where there is little movement. Typical service life is 10 to 20 years.
Butyl Rubber Caulk
Used for flashing and for sealing around metal window and door flanges during installation, rather than for finish caulking.
Expected Lifespan by Material
- 100% silicone: 20 to 30 years
- Siliconized latex: 10 to 20 years
- Polyurethane: 10 to 20 years
- Standard acrylic latex (not recommended for exterior): 5 to 7 years
In South Florida’s UV and thermal cycling, every material performs toward the lower end of its stated range compared with northern climates. Careful surface prep and professional application add years of service life over a typical DIY bead.
Our Caulking Process
- Inspect every window and door perimeter and identify failed or missing sealant.
- Remove all old caulk mechanically and with solvent, since full removal is what lets new caulk bond.
- Clean and dry the surfaces completely.
- Install backer rod where the gap is deep enough to need it.
- Lay the caulk in a continuous bead and tool it smooth for full contact and a clean line.
- Do a final inspection and clean up.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should caulk be replaced in South Florida?
Plan to have window and door caulk inspected every 3 to 5 years and fully replaced every 7 to 10 years with silicone, or every 5 to 7 years with latex-based products. The strong UV and heat here shorten those intervals compared with cooler states.
Can bad caulking really cause water damage?
Yes. It is one of the most common sources of water intrusion around windows and doors. Even small gaps let wind-driven rain reach the wall framing, insulation, and interior finishes over time.
Can you just caulk over the old caulk?
Not effectively. New caulk rarely bonds to failed old caulk, so the seal does not last. The old material has to come out first.
What is the difference between caulking a door and weatherstripping it?
Caulking seals the fixed joint where the door frame meets the wall or stucco. Weatherstripping seals the moving gap between the door panel and the frame. A door can need one, the other, or both, and we identify which during the inspection.
Do you caulk both interior and exterior?
Yes. We seal the exterior perimeter, which is what keeps water out, and the interior trim joint, which helps with air sealing and appearance.
Is caulking enough to stop a leak around my window or door?
Often yes, when the leak comes from a failed exterior seal. If it traces back to failed glazing, a bad sill or threshold, or a cracked or rotted frame, those need attention too. We assess the whole opening before recommending a fix.
Seal Your Home Before the Next Storm
Tell us where you are seeing gaps, drafts, or water, and we will inspect the openings and give you a straight answer on what needs re-caulking. Free in-home estimates across Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade.