South Florida is hard on the seals around a window. Intense sun, wind-driven rain, and constant humidity break caulk down years faster than in a drier climate, and once it cracks or pulls away, water and conditioned air start moving through the gap. Water stains under a sill, bubbling paint beside a frame, or a puddle on the floor after a storm are usually the first signs.
Atlantic Window Repair finds where the water is getting in and fixes that point, whether it is failed caulk, a broken glazing seal, a blocked drain, or a soft sill. We handle window leak repair and re-caulking for homes and commercial buildings throughout Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade counties.
Window Leak Repair: Finding Where the Water Gets In
A leak rarely shows up where the water enters. It runs along the frame, behind the trim, or down inside the wall before it appears, so the stain on the drywall is a clue, not the answer. We start outside, check every joint around the window, and where it is not obvious, run water over one section at a time until it comes through on the inside.
These are the leak points we find most often, and what each one needs:
- Failed perimeter caulk. The joint where the frame meets the stucco, block, or trim has cracked or pulled loose. Old sealant comes out completely and the joint is re-caulked.
- Broken glazing seal. Water gets in between the glass and the frame. Resealing works when the pane is sound; when it is not, the leak is fixed through glass replacement.
- Blocked weep holes. Sliding windows and doors drain through small slots in the sill track. When sand and debris plug them, the track fills during a storm and spills over the inside edge. We clear the drainage path.
- Worn weatherstripping. The moving gap between the sash and the frame loses its seal, and rain blows through under wind. The strips are replaced.
- Soft sill or rotted frame. Once wood has taken on water, new caulk has nothing solid to bond to. The wood is repaired first through wood repair and restoration, then sealed.
- Water from above. Overflowing gutters, a roof leak, or cracked stucco over the opening can all run down and show up at the window. When the window is not the source, we tell you so instead of caulking it anyway.
Signs Your Window Is Leaking or Needs Re-Caulking
- Cracks, gaps, or separation in the caulk around window or door frames
- Caulk that has yellowed, hardened, shrunk, or pulled away from the surface
- Water stains on walls, sills, or the floor near a window or door after rain
- Drafts or outside air felt around closed windows and doors
- Paint peeling or bubbling near window and door edges
- Mold or mildew on interior frames, trim, or the walls beside them
- Higher cooling bills as conditioned air escapes through the gaps
Window Caulking
On windows, the seal that matters most is the exterior joint where the frame meets the wall, stucco, or trim. That line is what keeps wind-driven rain out of the wall cavity. We also reseal the interior trim joint for air sealing and a clean finish, and the glass-to-frame perimeter where glazing sealant has failed. Old caulk comes out fully first, because new sealant will not bond over cracked or lifting material.
Door Caulking
Doors are sealed the same way, but the details change with the door type. On exterior entry doors, French doors, and the fixed frames of sliding patio doors, we caulk the perimeter where the door frame meets the wall or stucco, seal the joint at the threshold where water tends to pool, and reseal the trim and casing.
Caulk seals the fixed joint between a door frame and the surrounding structure. It is not the same as the weatherstripping that seals the moving gap between the door panel and the frame. If a door leaks air along the panel itself, that is a weather-seal issue, and if it sticks, drags, or will not latch, the cause is sliding door hardware rather than sealant. We check all of it during the inspection and tell you what is actually causing the leak.
Caulking Materials We Use
Silicone Caulk
100% silicone is the standard for exterior window and door sealing. It stays flexible through extreme temperature swings, bonds strongly to glass, metal, and painted surfaces, and resists UV breakdown better than any other common sealant. It is not paintable, and it comes in clear and standard colors.
Siliconized Latex (Paintable)
A blend of silicone flexibility and latex paintability. It adheres well and takes paint once cured, which makes it a good choice for interior trim and painted wood frames.
Polyurethane Caulk
Very durable and paintable, with strong adhesion to masonry, concrete, and stucco, all common in South Florida construction. It is more rigid than silicone, so it works best where there is little movement.
Butyl Rubber Caulk
Used for flashing and for sealing around metal window flanges during new window installation. Not typically used for finish caulking.
Standard acrylic latex is not recommended for exterior joints here. Whatever the material, South Florida UV and heat push every sealant toward the short end of its rated life, and careful surface prep adds more years than the tube itself.
Our Caulking Process
- Inspect every window and door perimeter and identify failed or missing sealant.
- Remove all old caulk mechanically and with solvent, since full removal is what lets new caulk bond.
- Clean and dry the surfaces completely.
- Install backer rod where the gap is deep enough to need it.
- Lay the caulk in a continuous bead and tool it smooth for full contact and a clean line.
- Do a final inspection and clean up.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should caulk be replaced in South Florida?
Plan to have window and door caulk inspected every 3 to 5 years and fully replaced every 7 to 10 years with silicone, or every 5 to 7 years with latex-based products. The strong UV and heat here shorten those intervals compared with cooler states.
Can bad caulking really cause water damage?
Yes. It is one of the most common sources of water intrusion around windows and doors. Even small gaps let wind-driven rain reach the wall framing, insulation, and interior finishes over time.
Can you just caulk over the old caulk?
Not effectively. New caulk rarely bonds to failed old caulk, so the seal does not last. The old material has to come out first.
What is the difference between caulking a door and weatherstripping it?
Caulking seals the fixed joint where the door frame meets the wall or stucco. Weatherstripping seals the moving gap between the door panel and the frame. A door can need one, the other, or both, and we identify which during the inspection.
Do you caulk both interior and exterior?
Yes. We seal the exterior perimeter, which is what keeps water out, and the interior trim joint, which helps with air sealing and appearance.
Is caulking enough to stop a leak around my window or door?
Often yes, when the leak comes from a failed exterior seal. If it traces back to failed glazing, a bad sill or threshold, or a cracked or rotted frame, those need attention too. If the leak is coming from failed glazing compound around the pane, the fix runs through glass replacement. If the sill or frame has gone soft underneath, it is wood repair and restoration first and sealant afterwards.
Seal Your Home Before the Next Storm
Tell us where you are seeing gaps, drafts, or water, and we will inspect the openings and give you a straight answer on what needs re-caulking. Free in-home estimates across Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade.